FAQs

It is very difficult to actually make pores smaller. Toners and skin primers basically make pores appear less obvious (by either removing the oil or filling the pore), but they do not make them smaller. In order to make pores smaller, you need to work from the inside – by choosing skincare products or cosmetic procedures that have an effect on the fiber content of the skin. Boosting the production of collagen, elastin and glycans actually help the pore be better “supported” from within, which usually translates into the pores becoming visibly smaller over time.

In order to track results from a skincare regime or cosmetic procedure, ask your skin specialist to perform a computer-based analysis of the surface of the skin. It is the only way to know if the pores got smaller with time.

If you apply enough sunscreen (ie the size of a golf ball of sunscreen to cover the entire body), a SPF 30 will block 95% of UVB rays, and a SPF60 will block 99% of UVB rays. Therefore, you are better protected against UVB (that are responsible of burns and tanning) if you use a SPF60 than a SPF30.

Of interest, a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) does not tell us anything about the sunscreen’s capacity to block UVA rays (responsible of skin aging and sun allergies). In order to be well protected against UVA rays, it is important to look for a combination of photostable anti-UVA molecules like Parsol 1789®, Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL.

Exfoliation is part of the natural cell renewal of healthy skin. However, as we age, skin exfoliation is not as efficient – the skin therefore looks dull and lacks radiance. Therefore, it is important to incorporate an exfoliating product (or procedure) within your skin care routine.

There are 3 types of exfoliation:
Chemical Exfoliation - using glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid or lipohydroxy acid (LHA) – either in skincare products or chemical peel procedures.
Mechanical exfoliation – using abrasive particles such as polyethylene beads or aluminum oxide crystals – either in a scrub or microdermabrasion procedures.
Enzymatic Exfoliation – by choosing products that contain natural enzymes, such as papaya enzyme or bromelain, which will break the bonds between cells to favour micro-exfoliation.

If you have tolerant skin (ie. non sensitive skin), you could exfoliate with a product adapted to your skin type 2-3 times per week. If you have naturally sensitive skin (or if your skin has been sensitized by a cosmetic procedure or have been diagnosed with a skin disease that makes your skin sensitive), you should avoid exfoliation altogether.

It is important to use a soap-free cleanser to avoid stripping the skin off its natural oils, which are essential to maintaining the natural hydration and pH balance of the skin. By using a gentle cleanser that does not contain soap or harsh detergents (like sodium lauryl sulphate, or SLS), the skin stays healthier, better hydrated and less prone to sensitivity from the environment.

Unfortunately, not all anti-aging products are created equal. From the scientific literature, there are actually few active ingredients that are recognized by the scientific community. Examples of anti-aging molecules that have been published:

• Retinoic acid
• L-Ascorbic Acid (active vitamin C)
• Glycolic Acid
• Peptides

That being said, active ingredients are not the only factor to consider into the development of a good anti-aging product. The delivery mechanisms (micelles, liposomes, nanosomes), pH properties, stability of the formulation and even proper packaging must be considered when developing a product. For example, glycolic acid must be formulated at a proper pH in order to be in an active form and have a significant effect on the skin. Also, glycolic acid preparation of less than 4% cannot claim to have an exfoliating effect – at that concentration, glycolic acid mainly acts as a humectant, not as an exfoliant. Products concentrations that are over 4% (and have a proper pH) can claim to have exfoliating effects on the skin.

Poison ivy is very natural, but you don’t want to have it on your skin!

“Natural” skincare products are usually made with essential oils and plant extracts that can potentially be irritating for sensitive skin or if you are taking specific medications that makes your skin more sensitive (for example, RetinA or Accutane).

For patients with sensitive or intolerant skin, it is better to go for products that are hypoallergenic, fragrance-free and preservative-free. These products contain pharmaceutical-grade ingredients that have been thoroughly tested, are pure and safe for sensitive skin.

To preserve a healthy skin, it is important to wear sun protection everyday on sun-exposed areas.

Sunscreens usually do a very good job at blocking UVB rays (responsible of tanning and sunburns). Unfortunately, the majority of sunscreens fall short when it comes to blocking short and long UVA rays (responsible of sun allergies, aging and skin cancer). These sunscreens can claim to have a broad-spectrum UVA-UVB protection, even if they only block a small percentage of UVA rays.

In order to be block as much UVA rays as possible, you want to look for formulations that contain a blend of anti-UVA ingredients that act in synergy:

• Parsol 1789® (the anti-UVB ingredient “octocrylene” must be added to the sunscreen formula as it stabilizes Parsol 1789®)
• Mexoryl SX (naturally photostable)
• Mexoryl XL (naturally photostable)

By choosing a well balanced sunscreen and wearing it everyday, your skin will look healthier, and you will prevent premature skin aging. That could potentially save you thousands of dollars in Botox, fillers and other cosmetic procedures!

If you have acne-prone skin on the face, here are ingredients you may want to avoid in your skincare routine, as they have been shown to be potentially pore-clogging:

• Mineral Oil
• Natural Oils (apricot, coconut, peanut, wheat germ, avocado, …)
• Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Coconut Butter, Mango Butter…
• Vaseline
• Oil Balance
• Silicones
• Algae derivatives
• Lanolin and its derivatives
• Fatty Acids
• Waxes

If you have sensitive skin you want to look for products that are:

• Hypoallergenic
• Made with pharmaceutical-grade ingredients
• Few ingredients
• Fragrance-free
• Soap-free
• Preservative-free, or alternatively self-preserving formulas
• Colorant-free
• Alcohol-free
• Peptides
• Peptides

Taking care of sensitive skin is about knowing what to use on the skin, but also what to avoid. Here’s a list of common cosmetic ingredients that are known sensitizers:

At the cellular level, antioxidants act as free radicals quenchers.

Free radicals are reactive molecules that impact the health of our cells at multiple levels: in the membrane, cytoplasm and nucleus of the cells. They cause damage to the cells which in turn age faster. Examples of:

• Sun Exposure
• Smog and pollution
• Cigarette smoke
• Vigorous physical activity
• Fat
• Glucose

In order to reverse cellular damage, beneficial molecules called antioxidants will help neutralize free radicals. Here are a few examples of antioxidant molecules:

• Vitamin A
• Vitamin C
• Vitamin E
• Coenzyme Q10, ubiquinone, idebenone.
• Grape Seed Extract
• Selenium
• Flavanoids

There is a huge difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin. It is important to know the difference, in order to choose the right skin care products.

Dry skin is a skin type, just like normal skin, combination skin and oily skin. By definition, dry skin lacks lipids, or natural oils. The sebaceous gland is not able to produce an adequate amount of lipids and therefore the skin constantly feels tight and itchy. There can also be flaking, redness and a lack of radiance. Even after a cream is applied.
Dehydrated skin is a skin condition which can affect any skin type. Dehydration - lack of water in the superficial layers of the skin – temporarily brings feelings of tightness, pulling and discomfort. When a moisturizer is applied to the skin, these symptoms tend to go away.

If you have dry skin, look for products that contain petrolatum, mineral and vegetable oils, shea butter and fatty acids. These ingredients will compensate for the lack of oil on the skin and bring temporary comfort. If you have dehydrated skin (and everybody does), you want to look for a moisturizer containing humectants (glycerine, hyaluronic acid, ...) with a texture adapted to your skin type – a creamy texture for drier skin, a lotion for normal to combination skin and a gel or light serum for oilier skin.

Getting rid of blackheads requires a multi-faceted approach to unclog pores and prevent the formation of new blackheads. And guess what: Extraction is not necessary!
The first step to success is to avoid comedogenic (blackhead-promoting) ingredients in your skin care and makeup products.

In order to unclog pores, you need to choose a skin care routine (cleansing, treating, hydrating) that will gently exfoliate the surface of the skin and the inside of your pores. The use of a well-formulated glycolic acid product will help surface exfoliation, while salicylic acid (or its derivative - lipohydroxy acid) will penetrate inside of the pores to loosen the blackheads and prevent further clogging and accumulation.

Within two to three weeks, the blackhead and pore content will be released. With regular use of hydroxyl acids, the pore will stay clean and empty and should appear smaller and less noticeable.

From a scientific perspective, it is safe to say that all sunscreens are not created equal and that the vast majority of sun protection products, on the market, do not provide your skin with optimal protection. The ideal sun protection product should have the following qualities: be stable to light (photostable), offer the highest protection possible against UVA and UVB rays, have a pleasant texture, be hypoallergenic, fragrance-free, preservative-free, have a minimum sun protection factor (SPF) of 30, be water and sweat-resistant, and combine a blend of mineral and organic sunscreen ingredients for maximum protection.

Do not be fooled by the claim “broad-spectrum UVA-UVB protection” as it can be misleading. A sunscreen could block 95% of UVB rays (responsible of burns and tanning) and only 5% of UVA rays (responsible of sun allergies and aging) – and still have the right to be called a “broad-spectrum protection”. Be aware that to be fully protected against UVB and UVA rays, you have to look for very specific sunscreen ingredients.

Recommended anti-UVB filters: titanium dioxide, octocrylene, Mexoryl XL.
Recommended anti-UVA filters: Parsol 1789(r) (must be stabilized by the presence of octocrylene in the product), Mexoryl SX, Mexoryl XL. Have a safe, protected summer!

Absolutely! You want to avoid the following skin care ingredients if you are (or trying to get) pregnant:

• Salicylic Acid
• Lipohydroxy Acid (LHA)
• Antibiotics
• Derivatives of vitamin A: tretinoin, isotretinoin, retinaldehyde, retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, retinyl palmitate.
• Essential Oils

It is very important that skincare products are applied in the proper order. For example, if a topical medication is placed on top of a sunscreen, it will not work, sincethe sunscreen will create a barrier to medication penetration.

Remember that, in order for a medication to work, it must touch the skin surface. For this reason, the prescription medication is always the first product applied to a clean, washed face. Most topical medications contain penetration enhancers to help the medication go into the skin so that the medication is effective. To work, this must go against the skin before other products are applied. After applying the medication, the next product applied should be a moisturizer. The moisturizer may actually enhance penetration of the medication; also, the formulation of moisturizers is also such that they generally won't interfere with the active ingredients in the medication that was applied first. Following moisturizer application, the sunscreen should be applied. Conveniently, some moisturizers can also contain a sunscreen, so you kill two birds with one stone.

Next, the facial foundation should be applied followed by powder, blush and any other colored cosmetics desired. To summarize, the proper order for product application is always: Medication, moisturizer, sunscreen, facial foundation, powder, blush and other colored cosmetics. This optimizes the functioning of the medication and allows the best final cosmetic appearance.

The cause of seborrheic dermatitis is somewhat controversial. Is it an infectious disease? Is it an inflammatory, proliferative disease? Is it a neurologic disease? In my opinion, seborrheic dermatitis is caused by a fungus that is capable of proliferating on the scalp and face of susceptible individuals and not others. The fungal cause of seborrheic dermatitis has recently been identified by Tom Dawson, Ph.D., as Malassezia globosa. This fungus is the cause of seborrheic dermatitis. It is the digestion of sebum on the scalp by M. globosa that releases free fatty acids causing inflammation and the accompanying proliferation.

The fact that multiple pregnancies do, indeed, lead to more facial wrinkles was confirmed in a Korean study.

This study involved an analysis of 186 women between the ages of 20 and 89 years who were interviewed for reproductive history. Their wrinkle severity was assessed on an eight-point photographic scale. Occupational and recreational sun exposure was also estimated. The study found at the 95 percent confidence level that the risk of facial wrinkling increased with the number of full-term pregnancies. The increase in facial wrinkling is felt to be due to the increase in metalloproteases (MMP) produced during pregnancy, especially the relaxins and collagenase that are secreted to allow the fetus to pass through the birth canal and provide skin expansion over the abdomen as the pregnancy progresses. With more pregnancies, the skin is exposed to more MMP that induce collagen breakdown.

It is also interesting to note that the hormones associated with menstruation cause collagen breakdown, as well. Menstruation is the process of sloughing of the endometrium. 2 It appears that menstruation requires the secretion of MMP, such as collagenase (collagenase-1, MMP-1) and gelatinase (gelatinase A, MMP-2).3 The endometrial glandular and stromal cells secrete these enzymes to allow menstrual bleeding to occur. Collagenases cleave the triple helical domain of fibrillar collagens at a neutral pH and are secreted just prior to menstruation. However, the collagenase may not only break down the fibrillar collagens present in the endometrium, but also in the dermis. This cyclic secretion of collagenases over time will decrease the collagen present in the dermis and result in facial wrinkling.

This may be one of the reasons males do not experience facial wrinkling to the same degree as females. Their bodies are not exposed to the MMP required for menstruation and pregnancy.

Coenzyme Q10, also known as CoQ10 and ubiquinone, is an endogenous antioxidant. It is labeled ubiquinone because it is found in all cells and is both waterand oil-soluble. Topical application of coenzyme Q10 was pioneered by Beiersdorf. Dr. Hoppe and colleagues demonstrated the topical penetration of coenzyme Q10 into the viable epidermis and a reduction in oxidation as measured by weak photon emission. They were also able to show a significant decrease in the expression of collagenase in human dermal fibroblasts following UVA radiation, and improvement in orbital wrinkling. Other evidence suggests that topical coenzyme Q10 may provide additive antioxidant benefits when combined with the colorless carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene. This effect was demonstrated in fibroblast cultures.

There are many different types of tea named for their visual appearance as white, red, green and black. Each of the teas contains different polyphenols and may provide different antioxidant benefits when consumed orally and applied topically. White tea, for example, comes from young tea leaves that are harvested for a few days each spring when the plant first emerges from the ground. These leaves are said to be very high in antioxidants. Similarly, red tea leaves and green tea leaves are named for the color of the leaves. Green tea is obtained from fresh plant leaves and buds that are not processed or fermented. Green tea contains the polyphenols epicatechin, epicatechin-3-gallate, epigallocatechin and epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). These are potent antioxidants. Oral studies with EGCG have demonstrated increased fat oxidation and improvements in heart rate and serum glucose levels with 300 mg daily. Other alkaloids present in green tea include caffeine, theobromine and theophylline. Finally, black tea is derived from fermented tea leaves. While the flavor of black tea is more pungent and desirable to some, black tea leaves are not as high in polyphenols as green tea leaves.

Rosacea patients comprise the biggest group of individuals with sensitive skin. This sensitive skin is thought to be due, in part, to a defective barrier and vasomotor instability (blushing). Thus, any topically applied substance that causes noxious sensory stimuli, vasodilation or irritation can result in a rosacea flare.

Ingredients that cause noxious sensory stimuli include volatile substances, such as lightweight alcohols (alcohol denat) and substances that create a cooling sensation, such as menthol. Any substances that are higher or lower than a neutral pH are also prone to cause stinging and burning. Vasodilation may also occur with these ingredients, but also could be seen with some of the new self-warming formulations for facial cleansing and moisturizing.

Finally, irritation must be minimized at all costs. Thus, high-concentration retinol, which may damage the skin barrier, should be avoided. Botanical ingredients are also problematic, as they too can cause slight irritation. Substances that cause physical exfoliation, such as scrubbing creams or abrasive scrubs, may cause barrier damage, as can chemical exfoliants, such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid, lactic acid and urea. Rosacea patients are best treated with highly emollient moisturizers that smooth the skin surface and create an artificial barrier to other irritants. The best ingredient that fulfills these needs is dimethicone. Dimethicone has a light feeling when placed over the skin and is easily removed with water. And don’t forget to wear a high SPF (30 and higher) on a daily basis, 365 days per year.

The quickest way to increase fullness of the lip vermilion is to induce mild irritation. This causes swelling and enlarged lip volume. The two most common irritants employed are capsaicin, well-known to dermatologists as a modulator of substance P, and nicotinic acid, used as a lipid-lowering agent with vasodilatation side effects. The irritant effect is short-lived and mildly uncomfortable.

The second method of increasing lip fullness is to remove the wrinkles of dehydration by increasing the water-holding capacity of the transitional epithelium. Since the lips do not possess a stratum corneum, evaporation from the lips can be rapidly affected. A variety of new synthetic waxes and polymers have been introduced that create a thick film over the lips and retard water loss.

Finally, the lips can be plumped by substances that fill in lip lines and create a smooth surface, while increasing the water-holding capacity of the lips. Topical hyaluronic acid spheres can fill in lip creases and attract water. Usually, the spheres are used in combination with the occlusive films previously mentioned, providing an additive effect.

a) Sunscreen
When it comes to sun protection, taking a preventative approach is crucial. The earlier you start wearing a daily sun protection (yes, even during the winter months), the healthier you skin will be and look. The sunʼs damaging UVA and UVB rays (even in indirect sunlight or through windows) damage the internal components of the skin, from cells to structural proteins. UV rays penetrate deep inside the skin, create free radicals, deplete collagen resources and contribute to skin aging and skin cancer. Sun exposure has also been shown to lower immune functions. So make sure you get enough vitamin D through supplementation, stay out of the sun and use antioxidant-rich skin care products that have a high SPF.

b) Nutritional Supplements Great for men and women of any age, vitamins, minerals and potent antioxidants help replenish the body and overall systemic health. Supplements also assist in preventing inflammation and free radical damage, helping restore skinʼs functions. For anti-aging, research shows that omega-3, coenzyme Q10, alpha lipoic acid (a powerful anti-inflammatory) and astaxanthin work in synergy to bring healthier-looking skin.

c) Manual Exfoliation
Exfoliating your skin is an essential step towards correcting multiple signs of aging: fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, loss of firmness and radiance. Manual exfoliation usually involves fine spherical particles embedded into a cream base, meant to be applied on the skin and gently rubbed in a circular motion. This mechanical action will help slough off dead skin cells for enhanced skin glow and penetration of anti-aging active ingredients. d) Chemical & Enzymatic Exfoliation
At the dermatologistʼs office, chemical peels help improve skin texture by removing damaged epidermal layers and accelerating cell renewal, much like a younger skin. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid) help in the improvement of pigmentation, dry skin, fine lines, wrinkles and minimize the aging process with longterm use. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs like salicylic acid and lipo hydroxy acid) are oil-soluble and therefore help with oily, acne-prone skin and blackheads.

a) Exfoliate, exfoliate, exfoliate.

By exfoliating your skin on a regular basis, you ensure better penetration of the active ingredients from your anti-aging product.

b) Use scientifically-proven active ingredients.

Look for ingredients such as vitamins A, C & E, antioxidants, peptides and glycolic acid. These ingredients have been scientifically-proven to enhance the appearance of aging skin.

c) Use a daily sun protection – even if you don’t go out.

A broad-spectrum UVA-UVB protection will ensure better preservation of the skin’s youth fibers - collagen, elastin, and glycans.

Cleansing is an essential step in good skin hygiene. Washing with water alone will rinse some of the dirt and debris away; alone it's not quite enough. Plain tap water will only remove about 65 percent of the oil and dirt on your skin, and will not effectively remove makeup. Skin cleansers, however, will help remove dirt, sweat, pollution, smoke, excess oil, bacteria, cosmetics and dead skin cells. The best cleansers do this without irritating, damaging or disrupting the skin's natural protective moisture barrier. You should cleanse your face twice a day - morning and night, and use a soap-free cleanser.

The texture of the cleanser should be adapted for your skin type. If you have dry skin, look for creamy cleansers and for combination/oily skin, choose a cleansing gel. For normal skin, you can choose any texture you prefer.

Using a toner after cleansing is important to adjust the pH, or the natural acidity of the skin. The skin’s optimal pH is around 5.5 - meaning it’s slightly acidic. Maintaining the proper pH helps the skin’s integrity, enables it to properly fight against the environment including bacteria, viruses and other micro-organisms and will keep it healthier overall.

A well formulated toner should revitalize, hydrate and soothe the skin while fighting free radical damage and delivering essential active ingredients to the skin.

Skin primers, in the form of serums or essences, represent an essential step towards healthy skin - they usually combine high concentrations of active ingredients, paired with a light texture that enables quick penetration into the skin. They also prepare the skin for better penetration of the moisturizer. The ideal serum should offer a broadspectrum antioxidant combination that delivers advanced protection against multiple signs of aging - to neutralize free radicals, help build collagen, reduce the appearance of excess pigmentation and provide superior antioxidant protection. More protection means healthier-looking skin and a better defense against environmental aging.